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Barolo 2007 – Bartolo Mascarello, Giacomo Conterno, Gisuseppe Rinaldi (27/7/2012)

2007年的Barolo在2011年推出,Antonio Galloni去年的一篇關於07 Barolo的文章
(題為:“2007 Barolo: Greatness in the Making”),
好像對2007年的Barolo評價挺正面,說07年比較熱,一些2、3線的酒莊也能種出成熟的葡萄,
容易釀造出比較甜美的 Barolo!
但對於一線的酒莊,可能07年的天氣就會過熱!因為一級田一般位處日照充足的位置。

Antonio Galloni以“2007 Barolo: Greatness in the Making”為題,第一段的節錄如下:
“……The 2007 Baroli are some of the most viscerally thrilling young wines I have ever tasted. The 2007s are similar to the 2004s, but with more substance. The wines are radiant, intensely perfumed and totally seductive, yet not at all heavy, in a style that offers the textural richness of a warm vintage with the aromatics of a cool year. In 2006 and 2007 readers will find the finest back to back Barolo vintages since 1989 and 1990. This article focuses on the 2007 Baroli, but I have also included notes on a number of other Piedmont wines that arrived late for Issue 192…..."

2007年的Barolo真的類似2004的嗎?真的可以回到89跟90嗎?

最近,跟一些Barolo和Barbaresco的酒莊莊主聊到07跟08的分別。
其中Paitin酒莊莊主(Neive村有名的小Barbaresco 酒莊)的一句話,可謂一語道破。
他說:“我的Barbaresco 2007在美國很受歡迎!而08就不行!”

究竟07年傳統一級酒莊的Barolo會是怎樣?真的是美國人喜歡的口味嗎?!

我品試的3瓶Barolo 2007:
 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo 2007 Giacomo Conterno Barolo 2007 Gisuseppe Rinaldi Barolo 2007

Bartolo Mascarello Barolo 2007 (混合四塊葡萄田的葡萄釀造,其中3塊位於Barolo村的田:
Cannubi; S. Lorenzo和Rue;還有La Morra村的一塊田:Rocche!)

Antonio Galloni 2012年四月的評語:
“The 2007 Barolo has grown tremendously over the last few months. Some bottles have been more closed than others, but what is certain is that the wine is putting on weight. The 2007 appears to have a long drinking window ahead. It is without question one of the wines of the vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2037. ”

我在5月品試這瓶Bartolo 2007。
早上9點開瓶,10點試了一點點,下午5點再用187ml的小酒瓶醒酒。
晚上7點半開始喝. 整個晚上,無論小瓶跟原瓶都開不了。
氣味跟味道以酒精和果酸為主。丹寧也比較柔弱。偶爾有一點玫瑰花香這些Barolo的指定動作。最後剩下大半瓶!
可 能,我開的那瓶就是Galloni說“more closed”的一瓶!

我把木塞塞回,放進酒櫃。8天后,我再喝。喝了兩天,Bartolo 2007沒有一丁點氧化的跡象。
對我來說,比較起第1天和第8天,第9天最好喝。
氣味方面:有濃濃的玫瑰跟柏油, 瀝青氣味。
鹽跟黑橄欖、嘉應子(陳皮梅)、洋芫荽 (parsley)、雪松木(cedar wood)、蘑菇、樟腦、香料等......

口感方面:初時,有一絲的果甜;其後以黑色的水果為主,很強的礦物味道;
感覺像喝玫瑰花水一樣;強而有力的丹寧慢慢的從小變多!
雖然第九天,Bartolo 2007好像挺複雜;
不過,我還是覺得這瓶酒,很深沉,果很黑很實,酒還緊閉。
我認同Galloni的說法,這瓶酒“is putting on weight”,第一天跟第九天無論在複雜性,架構,變化都有很明顯的提升!

 Bartolo Mascarello, Giacomo Conterno Barolo 2007

Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia 2007 (由單一葡萄田的葡萄釀造, Cascina Francia葡 萄田位於Serralunga村)

Antonio Galloni 2011年10月的評語:
“The 2007 Barolo Cascina Francia is an unusual version of this benchmark wine. In 2007 Conterno decided against bottling his Monfortino. Conterno believes Nebbiolo can handle rain and humidity (hence his decision to make Monfortino in rainy years such as 1987 and 2002), but not drought. The result is a Cascina Francia that is unusually dark, rich and powerful. The floral, herbal notes that are typical in young Cascina Francia have been replaced by deeper notes of tar, smoke and licorice to match the layers of intense dark fruit. The 2007 is powerful and imposing from start to finish. It is going to be a fascinating Barolo to follow over the coming years and decades. Cascina Francia is often accessible for the first year or two after it has been bottled. That has not been my experience with the 2007. It seems already headed for a period of dormancy. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2037. (Oct, 2011)”

我也是在5月品試這瓶Cascina Francia 2007。處理方法跟Bartolo 2007一樣。
可能我跟Galloni喝的時間及處理的方法不一樣,我不覺得這瓶酒進入了冬眠的狀況。
這瓶酒跟朋友一起喝,朋友說很elegant!我不 願置評!
Serralunga 的Barolo真的一開始就能讓人有elegant的感覺嗎??

一開始,Cascina Francia 2007已經有花有果,一絲一絲的,感覺挺甜美;但伴隨著很濃烈的酒精,指甲油氣味。
味道比Bartolo豐富一點,以不同品種的黑莓為主。但架構跟層次 也欠奉。又是剩下了一半。

但照我的觀察,像我的朋友一樣對義大利酒經驗不多的朋友來說,她們也覺得這瓶Cascina Francia 2007是可口的。Galloni說一般Cascina Francia是可以新鮮的喝,是對的。
Cascina Francia 比Monfortino容易應付,可以喝到很好喝的新年份酒,陳年的也很精彩!

但我覺得我的那瓶Cascina Francia 2007不像是在休眠的階段,至少他在第一天已經有花有果,而果是甜甜的!

剩下了半瓶,跟Bartolo一樣,把木塞塞回,放進酒櫃。
在第7天跟第8天再喝。Barolo應有的架子有了:平衡,有力,有層次,花味豐富,以玫瑰, 還有蘭花香最為突出。
果實方面,除了黑色的草莓,還有紅色的草莓。
酸甜平衡,薄荷、香科,還有薑的香味,每樣都配合得宜。酒很開放,味道持久有 力。

Gisuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate Le Coste 2007
(混合兩塊葡萄田的葡萄釀造, Brunate及Le Coste是位於La Morra村的葡萄田)

 Gisuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate Le Coste 2007

Antonio Galloni 2011年10月的評語:
“The 2007 Barolo Brunate-Le Coste is a regal, aristocratic Barolo. Firm tannins keep some of the extroverted qualities of the vintage in check. This shows marvelous inner minerality and coolness, with deep layers of fruit, menthol, licorice and tar that fill out the wine’s broad shouldered frame. The Brunte-Le Coste shuts down pretty quickly in the glass, suggesting it may be headed for a period of dormancy. Today, it is flat-out stunning. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2038.”

7月初,我開了這瓶Gisuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate Le Coste 2007。
據義大 利酒友的經驗,和Galloni的評語:“The Brunte-Le Coste shuts down pretty quickly in the glass, suggesting it may be headed for a period of dormancy.”,
於是,我調校了對這瓶酒的處理方法.

喝之前一個晚上(9點)開瓶,先喝一點點,看看一個多小時之內,有沒有出現Galloini說在杯子裡變得緊閉的情況。
然後分開5天來喝,而放在酒櫃的時候,我沒有把木塞放回,也即是說這瓶酒是一直打開的。

我的體會和評語是:
第一天到第五天,從沒有緊閉過。
而第一天,氣味跟味道已經可以,而從頭到尾,我可以看到一瓶Barolo從青蔥歲月,蛻變成成熟、優雅、美豔,到最後看到他遲暮之年。
最重要是Gisuseppe Rinaldi把Barolo最美妙的特色,全都呈現在這瓶Brunate Le Coste 2007裡面。
如果有時候你理解和體會不了書本上所說一些Barolo村子出產的Barolo是如何優雅,味道氣味如何,
喝了這一瓶酒,就可以充分體現讀萬卷書不如走萬里路的說法!


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