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紀念Ruffino Ducale Riserva Oro Chianti Classico Riserva 1962 (11/5/2012)

去年,在義大利找到10瓶Ruffino Ducale Riserva Oro Chianti Classico Riserva 1962,賣的賣,喝的喝,
現在已經一瓶也沒有,唯有寫下這瓶酒的一些記錄,以解心裡的一些離愁情緒!

Ruffino Ducale Riserva Oro Chianti Classico Riserva 1962

Ruffino Ducale Riserva Oro Chianti Classico Riserva 1962我喝了四瓶!三瓶表現良好,一瓶老態龍鍾!
有75%的機會可以跟這瓶50歲的老人侃侃而談,我也算走運了!

很多人問我,怎樣處理義大利陳酒,答案跟我處理這瓶62年的Chianti一樣:
早上8點開瓶,
兩小時後,我試了一點點,這樣可以確定酒有沒有壞 掉,還可以讓酒有多一點空氣透氣。
如果這一試我覺得酒已經挺開闊,我就會把木塞塞回,像這瓶62一樣,直到晚上7點!

 Ruffino Ducale Riserva Oro Chianti Classico Riserva 1962

第一瓶早上10點開瓶。
Tasting Note: nose of truffle, firm acidity, a bit sweet.
On palate: good acidity with soft tannins, starts to show fresh small fruits, not only berries, lingering.
Although structure is simple, it is delicious!

有些朋友可能會認為這瓶62可能已經過了“Peak”,晚上可能就不行!那我就做了一個實驗:
2012年3月份,Wine2Gather舉行了一場Old Chianti Wine Dinner,有5款Chianti:
1. Ruffino Ducale Riserva Oro, Chianti Classico Riserva 1962
2. Ruffino Ducale Riserva Oro, Chianti Classico Riserva 1988
3. Ruffino Ducale Riserva Oro, Chianti Classico Riserva 1990
4. Antinori Badia A Passignano Chianti Classico Riserva 1996
5. Montevertine Le Pergole Torte 1993

當晚,開了兩瓶62年,
第一瓶,就是我上述早上8點開那瓶!
第二瓶是一模一樣的Ruffino Ducale Riserva Oro Chianti Classico Riserva 1962:晚上7點開瓶,我先讓參加者試了一點點,
然後,大概晚上9:30才讓參加者仔細的喝這第二瓶的62 Chianti!

 Ruffino Ducale Riserva Oro Chianti Classico Riserva 1962

第二瓶剛開的62 年,參加者覺得挺好喝,甜甜的,像果汁一樣,十分簡單!
好吧,我再讓他透透氣!
馬上讓參加者喝早上開的那瓶62 Chianti!
所有花果香氣、earthy、mineral的味道和架構都比早上試時提升了一個層次。
香氣跟味道除了更firm外,還複雜了!
這瓶酒在晚上7時半下杯,有少部分參加者在9時也不捨得把它喝完, 一聞之下,還多了一些蜜糖和香草香氣!

 這時候,我讓參加者比較一下兩瓶分別開了10個小時和3個小時的62 Chianti。
他們的評語是:Nose是第一瓶62 Chianti比較好,Palate尤其是果味的實感就以第二瓶為好!

 其實我覺得還是第一瓶62 Chianti為最好,原因是第一瓶62 Chianti下了杯兩個小時之後,受溫度和氧氣影響,
像一個老人說了兩個小時的故事以後,一定有一點疲態!
這時候跟剛剛睡醒的老同志比較,一定有差距!

人性化一點對待一瓶陳酒,就如對著一個睡了50年的朋友突然睡醒了,你也不可以立刻請他去吃牛排,帶他去海洋公園玩機動遊戲吧!
我覺得讓他慢慢透氣,慢慢 恢復過來,他才能有力氣在晚上,跟你訴說年青時一些快樂往事和威水史!

Ruffino Ducale Riserva Oro Chianti Classico Riserva 1962

至於這瓶Ruffino Ducale Riserva Oro Chianti Classico Riserva 1962, 我也多說說一些背景故事吧!

 根據義大利酒大師Sheldon Wasserman的描述,1962年對Chianti 來說是一個很好的年份,60年代的Chianti,除了1964年,就以1962為最好!
他在1981年喝了3次Ruffino Ducale Riserva Oro Chianti Classico Riserva 1962。有這樣的記錄:
"Fragrant floral bouquet, soft on entry then shows noticeable tannin, well structured, room for improvement;
has some length and style".  He rated it 2-3 stars out of 4!

Ruffino 是義大利一個具規模的酒莊,現時年產量一千多萬瓶!
Ducale Riserva Oro Chianti Classico Riserva仍然是他的Flagship Wine!
1927是Ruffino酒莊的生產第一個Chianti Classico的年份,而1947就是Ducale Riserva Oro Chianti Classico Riserva的第一個年份。

Ruffino Ducale Riserva Oro Chianti Classico Riserva 1962

Ruffino Ducale Riserva Oro Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale Riserva的 分別是:
Only the best grapes from their own vineyards are used for the Riserva Ducale.
The gold label is a selection from the best lots of the best vintages of the beige label Riserva Ducale ...
The biege label Ducale is aged for o
ne year in 700- to 1000-liter oak casks, followed by a year in vats and a further year in oak. 
The gold label Riserva Ducale is given at least four years in oak."

Ruffino

Ruffino

至於Ducale的由來:
As for the Duke, "they named this wine for the Duke of Aosta, who, when he visited the Ruffino cellars in the 19th century, liked their wine. Consequently he arranged for them to be the official supplier to his house.
The first Riserva Ducale sold worldwide was the 1947!

僅此向這瓶Ruffino Ducale Riserva Oro Chianti Classico Riserva 1962致敬!


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